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If you want to install your carpet yourself, it is a good idea to read these instructions before starting the work.

Any application of wall-to-wall carpeting should begin with a thorough check of the floor. First of all, make sure it is level and firm. If the floorboards are crooked, it may be necessary to plan them. Other unevenness may require remediation with floor putty. Otherwise, these irregularities will become visible on the surface of the carpet after some time

Do the floor skirting boards have to be removed so that the carpet edges can be hidden under them? It is a solution that both gives a nice finish and makes cleaning easier.

However, the same can also be achieved by installing sweeping strips that cover the edges of the carpet and pin them to the footboard after installation. Also, make sure the floor is completely clean, but don't put the rug on right after the floor has been washed. It must be completely dry so that the carpet base does not stick to the floor surface.

The next step is measuring the floor and purchasing the carpet, which must be ordered in an excess size of approx. 10 cm in both length and width. Be aware that patterned carpets may also require a slight offset between the courses (report) in order for the pattern to match. So an extra length must be used here.

Choose the carpet in a strip width that best suits the room, so that you avoid longitudinal joints as much as possible, but at the same time limit the waste of excess carpet. The carpet dealer will be able to help you with this if you bring the measurements of the room and any niches.

For tools and additional materials, you must use a hobby knife with replaceable blades, sharp and strong scissors, carpet edge glue and double-sided carpet tape.

Course of action
Begin by sticking double-sided tape along the end walls of the room. For the time being, leave the protective paper on the upper side of the tape. Now the carpet can be rolled out on the floor.

If several lanes are to be used, it is important that they have the same pile direction. Cut the length of the tracks to an excess of 10 cm, which is distributed so that each of their ends goes 4-5 cm up the wall.

If several layers of carpet are needed to cover the floor, their sides are joined with double-sided tape on the underside. In order to achieve a completely precise and invisible joint, you should use a special technique which prevents threads and piles along the edges of the carpet from being cut.

Please be aware that during gluing, the carpet tape binds immediately. So ensure good adaptation before laying down on the tape. Otherwise, the carpet strips will lie in tension with the risk of dents in the carpet.

Please also note that when installing coir and sisal carpets, tape is not used for fastening, but full adhesion (see the checklist "Installation with non-slip glue"). But otherwise the procedure is the same as described here.

Checklist
Assembly with non-slip glue

Carpets made of coconut or sisal tend to grow and shrink depending on the humidity of the air. Therefore, they must always be fully glued to the floor. If you want to be sure of being able to remove the carpet again later without damaging both it and the floor, the fixing should be done with a so-called non-slip glue, which is applied to the floor with a notched trowel.

If coconut or sisal is only to be laid on a small floor, for example in an entrance hall, you can do the job yourself, but if it is a larger floor area, it is advisable to let a professional do the work.

Begin by rolling out the blanket and cutting it accurately all the way around. Then pull the carpet back halfway and apply glue to the exposed floor area.


Spread glue on the floor surface with a notched trowel, use a brush behind any pipes. After 15-20 minutes, the carpet can be rolled out on the glued piece and stepped on with small steps.


Press the carpet firmly along the edges with a small plate or empty bottle, and smooth if necessary. bulges out immediately. After half an hour, the carpet is pressed against the floor again, and you are ready to glue the other half of the carpet.


1 On the clean, flat and dry floor, carpet tape is stuck along the walls. On larger floor areas, a complete square grid of tape pieces can also be laid. For the time being, leave the top protective paper of the tape in place.


2 Press the carpet down firmly against the floor. Close the scissors and press the back of the blade against the carpet where the floor and wall meet. Move the scissors back and forth until a sharp crease is formed.


3 Start in a corner by pressing the tip of the hobby knife down hard against the wall. Cut along the wall while holding the knife at an oblique angle of maximum 20 degrees to the floor.


4 If the carpet is to be adapted to an inward corner, e.g. a chimney, bend the carpet over sharply so that the fold touches the leading edge of the corner. Then cut from the corner of the carpet to the corner of the wall.


5 Now the two "tips" of the carpet are cut off so far inside that the carpet can still protrude 4-5 cm against the walls.


6 With the sharp hobby knife held at an oblique angle, cut the carpet cleanly around the outward corner. You can optionally choose to cut along an iron ruler to be more sure of the result.


7 When laying around pipes, a straight cut is cut in from the edge of the carpet, after which the hole for the pipe is cut out. Hide any the passage under a pipe rosette.


8 There should be 1-2 mm of air between the edge of the carpet and the wall or footboard. If you have cut off a little too much, the edges can be covered with a sweep strip that is nailed on.